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Introduction to Wind Classic and Entry-Degree Watches
Hey everybody, welcome! I’m Chris and I’m joined right here immediately with the one and solely Eric Wind. Eric Wind is the first owner-operator of windvintage.com. In the event you haven’t heard of it, go test it out, particularly for those who’re questioning how to buy a classic Rolex.
What’s arising subsequent is without doubt one of the fanciest discussions I’ve ever had. Take pleasure in!
Classic Rolex Comparability Information
Mannequin
Period
Options
Particular Editions
Worth Vary
Rolex Air King (Ref. 14000)
Nineteen Nineties
34mm case, sapphire crystal, lengthy lug-to-lug match
Domino’s Pizza, Winn-Dixie company dials
Beneath $5,000
Rolex Air King (Ref. 5500)
Seventies–Eighties
Acrylic domed crystal, shorter lug-to-lug match
Tiffany & Co. signed dials
Beneath $5,000
Rolex Datejust (Ref. 1601)
Nineteen Sixties–Seventies
Pie-pan dials, non-quickset date, fluted white gold bezel
Khanjar dagger dials (Sultanate of Oman)
Beneath $7,000
Rolex Datejust (Ref. 16014)
Eighties
Quickset date, thicker bracelet, beefier case
Engine-turned bezels
Beneath $7,000
Rolex Oyster Perpetual (Ref. 1002)
Nineteen Sixties–Eighties
Blue mosaic (shantung) dials, chronometer-rated
Numerous dial textures
Beneath $5,000
Rolex Air King (Ref. 4499)
Nineteen Forties
Numerals impressed by WWII aviation
Air Tiger, Air Lion branding variants
Unavailable
The Rolex Air King: A Excellent Beginning Level
Eric: “For lots of people, a Rolex is a good watch that matches their life-style. They are often made water-resistant, they don’t really want to child it, it’s automated. You realize, some individuals neglect to wind their watch each day if it’s a guide wind watch, and you recognize, it’s actually a watch that’s an heirloom instantly.
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Folks perceive it’s an excellent place to begin, and it’s a watch you possibly can take pleasure in the remainder of your life with out a lot problem.”
Chris: “Perfect, yeah, so let’s just discuss what you have here.”
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Eric: “Sure, sure. For the needs of the article, we’re taking a look at three nice choices or entry factors into the sector of classic Rolex, which I form of outline as Nineteen Nineties and older.
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I believe among the best beginning factors within the form of underneath 5K vary can be the Rolex Air King.
So we’ve received two examples of the Rolex Air King reference 14,000, which I believe is without doubt one of the finest locations to begin on this planet of classic Rolex or your first Rolex.
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It’s 34 mm in diameter. Nevertheless, it has an especially lengthy lug-to-lug. I’ve one right here that’s really my son Charlie’s Rolex, and he picked it due to the blue dial, which he appreciated loads. There’s an instance with a black dial. There are additionally examples, after all, with silver dials which can be quite common, very modern, wonderful watches.”
Eric: “It wears extremely well on the wrist, it is just a very durable, sleek watch. Sapphire crystal, you don’t really have to worry about scratching it. Excellent all-around watch you could wear every day for the rest of your life and be happy.”
Chris: “I mean, you can consider this like it’s not really a vintage piece, right?”
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Eric: “This is neo-vintage 1990s. It’s very wearable. It’s 34, but because of the longer lug to lug, it really wears more like 35 on the wrist. And I prefer these honestly to the newer Air Kings, which are, of course, pretty garish and large and have the green and yellow logo and text, but I think this is really a classic watch.”
Chris: “No, I agree, and I think this is a great starting point for people just getting into vintage watches because it doesn’t really look vintage, right? It’s very much modern”
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Eric: “This reference additionally was attention-grabbing as a result of it was used for a number of company dials.
We’ve received a Domino’s Pizza Rolex that was given to sometimes franchise house owners who hit their gross sales targets, with engravings on the again of the initials.
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So that is additionally the reference 14,000, after which there was a Winn-Dixie for protected upkeep.
Somebody who labored at Winn-Dixie—in addition they had them for protected driving for the truck drivers—and once more, for 10 years of protected driving or protected upkeep on this case, you’ll get a Rolex.
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So these are enjoyable, these have gotten extraordinarily in style the previous couple of years, so that they’re form of out sometimes exterior of that $7,000 worth vary we form of set because the bar high bar for the article, however you recognize, it’s the identical reference actually only a brand on the dial. It provides you slightly really feel for the watch.”
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Chris: “Well, actually, my Rolex OP is that but with—but not with the Domino’s style—it’s on the bracelet.”
Eric: “Oh, that’s awesome, yeah, yeah.”
Evolution of the Air King: From WWII to Fashionable-Day
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Eric: “You realize, the honorable point out we’ll give the particular reference of the 14,000, however are the predecessor Air Kings just like the reference 5500, which they made out of actually numerous the ’70s and ’80s. Air Kings are this mannequin, and it’s an attractive watch as effectively.
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The lug-to-lug is shorter, so it wears slightly bit smaller, however you’ve received the attractive domed crystal.
The reference 14,000 is a flat sapphire crystal. That is an acrylic crystal, but it surely’s domed, which is gorgeous.
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This explicit instance is a Tiffany and Co. retail signature above 6:00, so it’s value exterior of our vary—that provides to the worth—however it’s simply an superior watch, simply very, very clear and straightforward to put on.
I’ve one of many unique Air Kings which is from the Nineteen Forties. It’s a reference 4499, and these had been actually marketed to individuals, probably pilots in World Battle II, which is why they got here up with that.
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Rolex was enjoying up with numerous completely different names like Air Tiger and Air Lion and various things throughout that point, and the numerals are extraordinarily cool in that mannequin. In order that’s form of cool to see the origin of the Air King after which undergo to see it via the Nineteen Nineties and early 2000s.
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The following reference I like to recommend is similar to the reference 5500. They made them from the Nineteen Sixties via the Eighties. Once more, it’s slightly bit shorter lug-to-lug measurement however has extraordinarily stunning dials.
This one has a blue mosaic dial, often known as a shantung dial.
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It seems to be like silk, virtually shiny, with a really attention-grabbing blue texture, and all of the 1002s are chronometer-rated, whereas the Air Kings from that period via the ’90s and early 2000s weren’t chronometer-rated—not that we actually care that a lot, however the motion is slightly bit higher and went via extra regulation than the reference 5500s.”
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Chris: “I was looking at this bracelet too. You have the rivets on there.”
Eric: “I love these bracelets. They’re very very light, they’re extremely cool, and very thin on the wrist. It’s part of the charm of vintage watches for sure.”
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Chris: “Yeah, I agree, I agree.”
Eric: “After which form of honorable point out on this Oyster Perpetual class, we’ve received a girls 6718, these are, you recognize, underneath $4,000, generally underneath $3,000.
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This has a blue dial, actually an attractive watch, and that is an older Oyster Perpetual reference 6332. There’s an entire sequence of many many alternative Oyster Perpetual references, and once more we’re speaking underneath $5,000. This has an excellent uncommon patinated dial from the Nineteen Fifties.”
The Datejust: A Basic Assortment Piece
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Chris: “Where do we start with this?”
Eric: “That is form of the most costly of what we’re taking a look at—a classic Datejust. On this case, the reference 1601 has a fluted white gold bezel for the metal fashions. For the gold mannequin, after all, it’s an 18K yellow gold bezel.
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1601 is only a basic form of quintessential Datejust made out of the Nineteen Sixties via the Seventies. These don’t have a fast set date.
The successor references do. You may get actually attention-grabbing—they sometimes have a pie-pan dial the place the outer monitor is sunken.
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They simply have actually, actually stunning dials. This instance is form of a blue sunburst end. There may be additionally a black confetti end the place, for those who take a look at the dial intently underneath a loupe, it’s received flecks of crimson and completely different colours, blue and issues, however seems to be form of like a matte black from a distance.
There’s only a complete number of dials. I imply, after all, the commonest is silver, however there’s not likely a giant premium to get a particular, you recognize, dial—linen dials as effectively which can be very attention-grabbing.
And we’re speaking once more about an unpolished instance, which collectors desire—unpolished examples with full lugs, with a full crisp definition on the bezel—for underneath $7,000 sometimes.
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This instance in two-tone occurs to have a Khanjar dagger on the dial, so it’s a bit costlier. This was from the Sultanate of Oman, however this instance with out that, once more, can be underneath $7,000 with out that dial.”
Understanding Watch Sprucing and Case Integrity
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Eric: “You need a actually good case, you need a dial freed from marks, you need a bracelet that’s not tremendous stretched. Typically these items, there’s such an enormous hole between every hyperlink; it’s not a really pleasurable expertise on the wrist, and also you form of fear about it disintegrating or falling aside whenever you’re carrying it.
When studying how to buy a classic Rolex, situation, situation, situation is the mantra to go by.”
Chris: “Yeah, I imply, you principally wrote the e-book on what to look out for in classic watches, proper? And also you all the time emphasize the situation, whether or not on the case, bracelet, particularly—that’s the place the vast majority of the worth is held throughout the dial.
When it comes to issues being polished, what’s your tackle that? Like, would you fairly have issues not polished in any respect or touched?”
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Eric: “Yeah, generally, classic watches don’t are likely to have tremendous thick lugs, you recognize, in order quickly as they hit a sharpening wheel throughout a service, the lugs get a lot, a lot thinner.
You possibly can lose 30% or extra of the important width of that lug, after which it begins to appear to be toothpick lugs, as we name them, had been simply too skinny—it doesn’t look as good on the wrist.
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You virtually fear in regards to the integrity of the watch. That was a part of the explanation Rolex switched to the Maxi circumstances for the Subs, for the GMTs and issues, and a part of their form of personal advertising and marketing round that was that the watch may very well be polished 10 occasions with out problem.
So it’s one thing they consider. These older circumstances are rather more delicate and petite, completely positive for on a regular basis intense put on, however they don’t look pretty much as good once they’ve been polished thrice for certain. At that time, it’s going to not look nice.”
Engine-Turned vs Fluted Bezels: Making the Alternative
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Eric: “And form of the honorable point out of those are the short set fashions, which once more should not actually completely different by way of worth. I’ve a 16014, which is the rapid successor reference and this has slightly bit thicker bracelet the place the profile seems to be like a D, and the case is general slightly beefier to accommodate the short set motion.
This can be a 16030, which is the model with a metal engine-turned bezel versus the white gold fluted bezel. I additionally just like the 1603s, that are just like the 1601s however with the model of engine-turned bezel. They’re simply all implausible watches.
I inform individuals on a regular basis for those who’re in search of that form of $7,000 and underneath worth level and in search of one thing that somebody’s going to love and respect in the event that they don’t have already got a Datejust, it’s an awesome look ahead to any assortment.”
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Chris: “Why would someone go over engine-turned over traditional fluted?”
Eric: “The one cause I prefer it as effectively—it’s slightly bit stealthier, it doesn’t catch the sunshine the identical manner. It simply is determined by the way you need to form of impress individuals as a result of they’ll see the gold bezel most likely a bit extra, and a few individuals like that basic look.
In the event you’re in my thoughts’s eye after I consider a Datejust, I consider that bezel, or after I consider a Day-Date, I additionally consider that bezel. However they don’t make the metal engine-turn bezels anymore, that’s additionally cool. Whenever you see that, you recognize it’s an older watch.”
Chris: “I know a lot of people that want to collect things outside of the box. I think something like this would be perfect.”
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Eric: “Yeah, yeah, precisely. One other form of honorable point out for the Air Kings is the Date fashions, and among the Air Kings even have this model of bezel as effectively, the 14010, the place it’s received this overhanging engine-turned-bezel.
However some individuals like that Air King profile however need a date, and there may be the reference 15200, that’s primarily the very same because the Air King however with a date. And then you definately’ve received different variations which have a date with this engine-turn bezel as effectively.
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So once more, we’re speaking underneath $5,000 for these fashions. It’s a 15010, and this can be a 15210. So, one has a sapphire crystal, and the opposite has an acrylic crystal.”
Care and Upkeep of Classic Watches
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Chris: “So I’ve a query for you as a result of I simply acquired this very pristine Citizen Bullhead. I don’t know what the man did. Possibly he didn’t put on it, or he was very cautious about carrying it over his cuff and all that.
For individuals simply moving into classic watches and so they simply acquired a really clear instance of no matter they needed, ought to they put on it and simply go on about their day as if it was like a traditional sport watch, particularly on, you recognize, the bracelet and all that, or ought to they watch out with it?”
Eric: “The attractive factor about all of those watches is that if they’re bought by a reliable vendor, you need to ask in the event that they’re water-resistant. We attempt to make every part we promote on this planet of classic Rolex water-resistant in addition to fashionable Rolex so you possibly can form of put on it.
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These are very sturdy bracelets. As we inform individuals, you recognize, don’t simply throw the watch round and deal with it badly, however for those who deal with it effectively, it ought to final for a whole lot of years, which isn’t like numerous different issues in our lives today.
I believe for those who simply deal with it effectively, you recognize, set it on a gentle material or gentle pad whenever you go to mattress at night time, however simply watch out with the watch.”
Watch This Assessment
Closing Ideas
Effectively, it seems to be prefer it’s time to finish the information session on how to buy a classic Rolex. Thanks once more to Eric Wind, positively verify him out!
All proper, effectively, I’m Chris from Clicky Bezel, and I hope to see you on the subsequent one.
From a younger age, I used to be hooked on watches. My dad and uncle had been each collectors, and I couldn’t resist the attract of their timepieces. However it wasn’t till I stumbled upon a Casio digital calculator watch in faculty that I actually fell in love. (I initially purchased the watch to finish my Again to the Future costume for an 80’s-themed get together)
It wasn’t till the discharge of the Swatch Moonswatch watches that Clicky Bezel got here to fruition. My spouse (bless her coronary heart) had been bugging me for years to begin a YouTube channel, and I lastly caved in with my first video overlaying my expertise tenting over 16 hours for the hyped-up Moonswatches.
In a comparatively quick time, I’ve been fortunate sufficient to attach and collaborate with some huge gamers within the trade, together with Nomos Glashütte, Jomashop, Minase, and now Fashionbeans. To study extra about my ardour, discover my content material right here on fashionbeans.com, observe my Youtube web page: https://www.youtube.com/c/ClickyBezel or go to my web site at: https://clickybezel.com/
