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The Wall Street Publication > Blog > U.S > A quick historical past of beer, from historic goddesses to Oregonian craft brews
U.S

A quick historical past of beer, from historic goddesses to Oregonian craft brews

Editorial Board Published July 22, 2025
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A quick historical past of beer, from historic goddesses to Oregonian craft brews
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We all know that beer is previous, however how previous precisely?

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Anthropologists and archaeologists have discovered proof putting the earliest beer brewing a minimum of 6,000 years in the past in historic Mesopotamia (a part of the Fertile Crescent of the Center East in modern-day Iraq). Across the similar time, beer was additionally being brewed in China, Egypt and even the Americas.

And newer analysis suggests beer was unintentionally found as early as 10,000 B.C.E., or over 12,000 years in the past by the Natufian individuals, who have been ancestors of the Sumerians from the Levant, the historic space of the Japanese Mediterranean and at present’s Center East.

Historical past’s first goddess of beer

Beer was probably one of many essential causes for the Neolithic or Agricultural Revolution, when hunter-gatherer societies shifted from nomadic life to staying in a single place to type agricultural communities. Naturally, given beer’s significance to early civilizations, there have been quite a few deities related to beer and brewing. The earliest goddess of beer we all know of was Ninkasi, worshipped by the traditional Sumerians practically 5,000 years in the past.

Ninkasi was the daughter of Enki, the Sumerian god of water, and Ninti, or “mistress of life,” and her title is probably going translated as “mistress of beer.” She additionally might have had a much less well-known sister named Siris, who was equally related to beer. Curiously, particularly given her significance to Sumerian every day life, there aren’t any photos of her which were definitively recognized from historic occasions.

A monk pours beer from a barrel on an historic fresco on the east wall in Orslev church in Denmark. (Courtesy Getty Photographs/iStockphoto) 
What did historic beer style like?

In the event you had a time machine and went to historic Sumer for a fast pint, you’d probably be upset — it was completely different sufficient from fashionable beer that you simply’d hardly acknowledge it.

The one similarities between historic and fashionable beers are that they’re each made with a grain like barley or wheat and fermented by yeast. Nonetheless, historic beer was made with wild yeast as a substitute and contained no hops, since they didn’t develop within the Center East and weren’t generally added to beer till the thirteenth century.

It will have been very thick and cloudy from being unfiltered, extra like porridge or gruel than a vibrant golden pilsner — in a means, the unique hazy. With out the bitter stability of hops, it was probably very candy and fairly bitter. Many historic recipes known as for all kinds of different substances, not in contrast to what we name gruits, herb blends used as a substitute of hops for seasoning beer, resembling dates, safflower, grapes, coriander, fenugreek, honey, and lots of others.

The oldest recognized point out of brewing methods is the well-known “Hymn to Ninkasi,” a tribute to the beer goddess written in cuneiform on a clay pill round 1800 B.C.E. Three copies of the hymn are recognized to exist, and at present they’re in museums in Berlin, Istanbul and Paris. It’s usually claimed that it’s additionally a recipe for brewing historic beer, and several other makes an attempt have been made to breed it primarily based on the directions on the pill.

Professor Miguel Civil, left, worked on an ancient beer recipe with former Anchor Brewing owner Fritz Maytag, right, to create Ninkasi beer in 1989. (Anchor Brewing Co.)Professor Miguel Civil, left, labored on an historic beer recipe with former Anchor Brewing proprietor Fritz Maytag, proper, to create Ninkasi beer in 1989. (Anchor Brewing Co.) 

The primary was famously undertaken by Anchor Brewing in 1989 below the title “Ninkasi Sumerian Beer.” Since then, different students have tried to re-create it. However the issue is that there are a minimum of three translations of the unique textual content, and so they differ considerably, particularly when describing the brewing course of. At greatest, the hymn is incomplete; at worst is just meant as a tribute and never an instruction guide. In each try and make Sumerian beer, many interpretations and wild guesses needed to be made. Every try turned out very in a different way.

One other distinction with historic beer is that it wasn’t usually served in particular person cups. As an alternative, individuals stood or sat round a tall clay pot, communally ingesting from it via a protracted reed straw, usually with small holes on the backside to filter out bigger particles on the backside. It was not chilled, and since it might solely final a couple of days, it was virtually all the time consumed contemporary.

Ninkasi in Oregon
Diners enjoy the courtyard at Ninkasi Brewing in Eugene, Oregon. (Carol Pucci/Seattle Times/MCT)Diners benefit from the courtyard at Ninkasi Brewing in Eugene, Oregon. (Carol Pucci/Seattle Occasions/MCT) 
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A brewery named after Ninkasi was opened in Eugene, Oregon, in 2006 by Jamie Floyd and Nikos Ridge. At this time, Nice Frontier Holdings, the dad or mum firm of Ninkasi Brewing Co., is the Twenty eighth-largest craft brewery in America. They don’t make any beers an historic Sumerian would acknowledge, although they do brew some very tasty IPAs and different fashionable beers.

Contact Jay R. Brooks at [email protected].

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TAGGED:ancientbeerbrewscraftgoddesseshistoryOregonian
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